How to make sourdough bread starter - and to die for sourdough bread.
Sourdough simply uses wild yeast in place of commercial yeast
to leaven the bread. It relies on the wild yeasts that are in
the air all around us and cultures those yeasts in a warm, wet
environment created with water, flour, and sometimes other
components.
When creating a sourdough starter, we always felt like we were
on an expedition trying to trap invisible yeastie beasties with
our flour and water concoctions. Because we couldn’t see the
beasties, we were never sure what we had captured. While
usually successful, we never felt like we were in control.
Maybe that is the way sourdough bread should feel, a symbiosis
with nature.
But there is an easier way: use commercial yeast in the
starter. I know, that’s heresy to the sourdough bread zealot
but we only care about the bread. Using commercial yeast is
easier, it’s the alcohol from the long cool fermentation that
creates the sourdough-like flavor, and the wild yeasts will
eventually take over the starter anyway. Because it's easy,
it’s no big deal if you abandon your starter after a few weeks;
you can readily start another when you’re back in the mood or
have the time.
Using this recipe for sourdough bread, a small amount of yeast
is used in the starter. As the starter is used and refreshed
with new feedings of flour and water, wild yeasts are
introduced and cultivated.
Perfect Sourdough Bread:
For the starter:
1 cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
1/4 teaspoon yeast
1 cup high gluten unbleached flour.
Mix the starter in a glass or steel bowl, cover with plastic
wrap, and set it aside at room temperature until it is doubled
and bubbly, maybe 4 to 6 hours.
For the sponge:
A sponge is a pre-ferment, a wet mixture of flour and yeast
that acts as an incubation chamber to grow yeast at the desired
rate. It is added to the dough.
1 cup of the starter
3/4 cup warm water
2 cups flour
Mix the one cup starter with the flour and water, cover, and
set aside to ferment until it has tripled in volume. At room
temperature, it will take four to eight hours. You can put it
in a cool place--about fifty degrees--and let it perk all
night. (In the winter, your garage may be just right.) You
can also put it in the refrigerator overnight. At temperatures
of forty degrees, the yeast will be inactive but the friendly
bacteria will still be working and enhance the sour flavor of
the bread. If you retard the growth with lower temperatures
(“retard” is the correct term for slowing the growth of the
yeast), simply bring the sponge to room temperature and let it
expand to three times its original volume before proceeding.
For the dough:
All of the sponge
11/2 cups flour (more or less)
2 teaspoons salt
Mix the salt with the flour. Knead the combination into the
sponge by hand until you have a smooth, elastic, slightly
sticky dough, adding more flour as needed. Put the dough in an
oiled bowl and let it rise again until doubled, about an hour.
Bakers note: Notice that the salt is not added until the last
stage. Salt in the sponge would inhibit yeast growth.
Form the loaves:
Though you can make this bread in pans, it works best as a
large freestanding round or oval loaf or two smaller loaves.
Place a clean cotton cloth in a bowl or basket in which to hold
the loaf. Lightly dust the interior of the bowl with flour.
Place each formed loaf upside down in a bowl on top of the
dusted flour. Cover the loaves with plastic and let them rise
again until doubled. This rising will probably take less than
an hour.
Bakers note: You want a light dusting of flour on the cloth to
be transferred to the bread, not a heavy caking. Softly sifting
flour from a strainer is the easiest way to achieve an even
coating.
If you choose to bake the bread in pans, omit this step.
Instead, let the dough rise in a greased bowl covered with
plastic until doubled. Form the loaves for pans, place the
loaves in greased pans, and let rise until well-expanded and
puffy. Bake at 350 degrees until done, about 30 minutes.
To bake crusty bread:
To form the thick, chewy crust that is typical of artisan
breads, follow these instructions: Place a large, shallow,
metal pan in the oven on the lowest shelf. You will pour hot
water in this pan to create steam in the oven. (High heat is
hard on pans so don't use one of your better pans and don’t use
a glass or ceramic pan which might shatter.) An old sheet pan
is ideal. Fill a spray bottle with water. You will use this to
spray water into the oven to create even more steam.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. When the oven is hot and the
bread is fully risen and is soft and puffy--being very careful
not to burn yourself with the rising steam and with a mitted
hand—turn your head away and pour two or three cups of very hot
water in the pan in the oven. Quickly close the oven door to
capture the steam. With spray bottle in hand, open the door
and quickly spray the oven walls to create more steam and close
the door. The oven is now ready for the loaves.
Work quickly to get the bread in the oven before the steam
subsides. Gently invert the loaf or loaves onto a slightly
greased non-insulated baking sheet on which a little cornmeal
has been dusted. With your sharpest knife, quickly make two or
three slashes 1/4-inch deep across the top of each loaf. This
will vent the steam in the bread and allow the bread to expand
properly. Immediately, put the bread in the steamy oven.
After a few moments, open the door and spray the walls again to
recharge the steam. Do this twice more during the first fifteen
minutes of baking. This steamy environment will create the
chewy crust prized in artisan breads.
Let the bread bake at 425 degrees for fifteen minutes in the
hot steamy oven and then reduce the temperature to 375 degrees
and bake for a total of 35 to 40 minutes. Check on the bread
ten minutes before the baking should be complete. If the top
is browning too quickly, tent the loaf with aluminum foil for
the remainder of the baking to keep it from burning. The bread
is done when the crust turns a dark golden brown and the
internal temperature reaches 210 degrees. It is important
that the bread is well-baked to drive moisture from the loaf.
If the bread is under baked, the excess moisture will migrate
to the crust and you will no longer have the dry chewy crust of
a great artisan loaf.
This sourdough bread is to die for. The prolonged rising gives
the yeast plenty of time to convert the starch to sugars and the
friendly bacteria a chance to impart their nut-like flavors.
Storing your crusty bread:
Unused crusty bread should be stored in a paper bag at room
temperature. If the bread is stored in a plastic bag, the
crust will become soft.
Copyright 2003-2007, The Prepared Pantry
PreparedPantry.com [1]. Published by permission.
About The Author: Dennis Weaver is a baker, a recipe designer,
and a writer. He has written many baking guides and “How to
Bake,” a comprehensive baking and reference e-book--available
free at The Prepared Pantry [2], which sells baking supplies and tools and has a free online
baking library.
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